Toledo's El Greco Museum will likely be closed for
renovation through 2008, but its 20 El Greco paintings
will be on display at the nearby Victorio Macho
Museum. Toledo's Alcazar -- the fortress that evokes
so much Civil War history emotion among Spaniards --
will hold Spain's National Military Museum when it
reopens, hopefully in 2008.
Granada's Alhambra, a fortress built by the Moors to
keep out the Christians, now welcomes everyone,
especially those with a reservation. (All others wait
in a long line.) When you book your hotel room, ask if
your hotelier can make an Alhambra reservation for
you; many offer this as a service to their guests. Or
you can order tickets on your own online